India’s most populous state, with over 165 million inhabitants, Uttar Pradesh is home to some of the finest monuments in the country and although it is large, most of the places which visitors will see are in the south eastern and south western corners.
Agra is often visited as part of tours of Rajasthan but does sit within the boundaries of Uttar Pradesh. Of all the major tourist centres of India, there is perhaps no other which is so associated with a single monument. But when that place is the Taj Mahal it is perhaps obvious why. The Taj is arguably the most famous building in the world and millions of words have been written about it over the past 350 years since its construction. Many greatly-hyped places can fail to live up to expectations but this seems not to be an issue when it comes to the Taj- first impressions are generally quite overwhelming and many people will say that it doesn’t matter how often you see this ‘teardrop on the face of time’, that you will still be blown away by its majesty and sheer perfection.
Near to Agra is the former Mughal capital at Fatehpur Sikri. This extensive conclave of royal pavilions, meeting halls and recreation areas was conceived and constructed in the 16th century as the capital of the vast empire which ruled most of northern India at that time. However chronic water shortages led to its being abandoned a mere 14 years after it was finished. The dry climate of this region appears to be perfect for preserving the sandstone of which the city was constructed and even after more than 4 centuries this ghost-city gives the impression of having be deserted only a few years ago. Fatehpur can be visited on the way to or from Agra to Jaipur.
Far to the east lies the famous city of Varanasi- one of the most sacred places in Hinduism and a place of vast spiritual importance. Considered by many to be the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world, Varanasi is situated on the banks of the holy River Ganges and the ghats (steps) which line the western bank of the river are the centre of much of the spiritual activity here. Staying at one of several excellent hotels close to the river enables visitors to easily access the ghats and observe at close quarters the rituals which go on here. Another quintessential experience while visiting Varanasi is a boat ride on the Ganges at dawn- no matter how much of an assault on the senses some aspects of Varanasi undoubtedly are, the serenity of drifting along on the river observing the parade of humanity as the ghats come alive at dawn makes the entire trip there worthwhile. A further testimony to Varanasi’s importance as a sacred place through the ages is the important Buddhist site, Sarnath, which lies just beyond the boundaries of the city. It was here that the Buddha gave his first sermon and the significance of this area to Buddhists through the ages since has never diminished.
Other places which may be visited in Uttar Pradesh include the cities of Allahabad- another sacred place on the Ganges- and Lucknow which played a major part in the Raj-era history of India and particularly in the Indian Uprising of the 1850s
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Symbol of Love
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Agra is a city on the banks of the Yamuna River in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh, India. It finds mention in the epic Mahabharata when it was called Agrabana, or Paradise. Tradition and legend ascribe the present city of Raja Badal Singh (around 1475) whose fort, Badalgarh, stood on or near the site of the present Fort. However, the 12th century Persian poet Salman writes of a desperate assault on the fortress of Agra, then held by one King Jaipal, by Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni.[1] It was ruled by Sultan Sikandar Lodi in the year 1506. It achieved fame as the capital of the Mughal emperors from 1526 to 1658 and remains a major tourist destination because of its many splendid Mughal-era buildings, most notably the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri, all three of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Agra is a medieval city situated on the banks of the river Yamuna. It is generally accepted that Sultan Sikandar Lodi, the Ruler of Delhi Sultanate founded it in the year 1504. After the sultan's death the city passed on to his son Sultan Ibrahim Lodi. He ruled his Sultanate from Agra until he fell fighting to Babur in the First battle of Panipat fought in 1526. In the year 1556, the great Hindu warrior, Hemu Vikramaditya also known as Hem Chander Vikramaditya won Agra as Prime Minister cum Chief of Army of Adil Shah of Afgan Sur Dynasty. The commander of Humayun / Akbar's forces in Agra was so scared of Hemu that he ran away from Agra without the fight. This was Hemu's 21st continuous win, who later on won Delhi also and had his coronation at Purana Qila in Delhi and re-established Hindu Kingdom and the Vikramaditya Dynasty in North India. The golden age of the city began with the Mughals. It was known then as Akbarabad and remained the capital of the Mughal Empire under Emperor Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan. Shah Jahan later shifted his capital to Shahjahanabad in the year 1649.
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Holy City on the Ganges
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Varanasi, also known as Kashi and Benaras, is the cultural capital of India and the ultimate pilgrimage destination. Varanasi is the oldest living city in the world (over 3000 years old), and famous for its spiritualism, Indian philosophy, Ayurveda, Yoga and mysticism. Hindus believe that one who is graced to die on the land of Varanasi would attain salvation and freedom from the cycle of birth and re-birth. It is at the Gange Ghats in Varanasi where we see life and death together.
Varanasi, situated in Uttar Pradesh in central North India, can be easily included into any itinerary in the north. Varanasi can be reached by train by many centres or an easy hour's flight from Delhi.
The ‘old city’ of Varanasi lies along the west bank of the holy Ganges River. There are more than 100 ghats (steps) which line the western bank of the Ganges. They are awash with people from the pre-dawn hours until well into the night and Varanasi is one of the most important centres of pilgrimage in all of Hinduism. It is believed that people are cleansed physically, mentally and spiritually at the Ghats. For thousands of years people have been offering their morning prayers to the rising sun.
During the nightly Aarti ceremony thousands of tiny oil lamps are set alight and then cast onto the waters of the Ganges to a soundtrack of myriad clanging bells and gongs, chants, poetry and general mayhem. This is one of India’s most celebrated rituals and a truly unforgettable experience. Despite its reputation as one of the most chaotic cities in India, Varanasi is a friendly and welcoming place and you will be most welcome to sit and absorb the events going on around you.
A dawn boat ride on the Ganges is a "must do" in this holy city and cannot be adequately described in words. Having the opportunity to light a candle and float your offering on the Ganges will make you feel you are contributing to the dawn ceremonies.
A total overload for all the senses and a photographer’s dream, the ancient dawn rituals of Varanasi are essentially unchanged in modern times and retain a primal quality which makes them truly compelling. Varanasi is a place which is very intense and immediate but it does reveal more and more of its charms over time.
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