Rajasthan India

Jaipur was built by Sawai Jai Singh II and construction started in 1727. Sawai means "extraordinary" and Jai Singh was awarded this title by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. He was a keen scholar and a man we can say in historical hindsight to have been ahead of his time. Jaipur was planned to be a  purpose- built capital to the south of the old capital at Amber. It was named the "city of victory" and took 6 years to complete. Jai Singh II planned for the streets and squares to be built in a mathematical grid of 7 squares to represent the ancient Hindu map of the Universe.

When Prince Albert visited Jaipur in 1876 it was decided to make an impression and cut down the glare and put a pink wash over the buildings. To this day the buildings of the old city are still maintained with this uniform rose pink wash. Today Jaipur is a modern metropolis with busy commercial centre. It has preserved its rich history of palaces and forts and the modern and ancient coexist within a city proud of its heritage.

 

Visit the colorful Tripolia bazaar and streets around Badi Chaupur in the old city and here you will find the artisans who make the puppets, silver jewellery and local handicrafts that Jaipur is renowned for. The City Palace in the old city is a large complex renowned for its treasures. The museum displays include miniature paintings, manuscripts, mughal carpets, musical instruments, royal costumes, weaponry, and decorative arts and crafts. The palace is home to two Giant Urns listed in the Guiness Book of Records as the world’s largest silver objects. These contained water from the Ganges and were used by Madho Singh for his use while on a visit to London in 1901.

 

Jantar Mantar is an open air observatory near the City Palace Complex. It was built by the founder of Jaipur ,Sawai Jai Singh II, and is one of five that were built by him. Today this is the best preserved observatory as it was restored in 1901.The instruments give insight into the ancient knowledge and ways of measuring time, location of stars and constellations, the sun’s declination, meridian, and altitude. Some of the instruments are still used today to forecast how hot the summer months will be.

 

Hawa Mahal "The Palace of Winds” is a well known landmark in the Old City and here in the old days the royal women would have watched royal processions from behind stone carved lattice windows. Today it houses a museum showcasing collections of the past and present.

 

The hills to the North and east of Jaipur are where one can find forts and temples reachable only by steep paths. Nahargarh or the “Tiger Fort” is located on an edge of a hill to the north of Jaipur. A good reason to visit here are the wonderful views of Jaipur that can be enjoyed from the high walls of the fort.

To the east 3km from Jaipur are the temples of Galta located in a narrow ravine. A freshwater spring ensures that two tanks are filled with water creating a home for thousands of macaque monkeys in an otherwise dry valley. The monkeys have become an attraction here as much as the temples.

 

No visit to Jaipur would be complete without a visit to Fort Amber the former capital. Located 10km from Jaipur next to a lake, the Amber Fort and Palace complex are perched high on a narrow rocky ridge. The high ramparts and successive gates along a cobbled road provide an unforgettable entrance to the Fort. Elephants still plod along the ramparts as they would have when they provided transport for the Rajput royal family in days of old. It is possible to ride an elephant up the steep ramparts but it is best to visit early in the morning as the elephant rides are limited each day to ensure elephant welfare.

 In Amber the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing is a centre that provides information, and exhibits of hand block printed textiles. Its purpose is to protect, conserve and promote regional art, culture and craft traditions.

In 1567 AD the Moghul armies of Emperor Akbar conquered Chittorgarh and Udai Singh had to hide out in the Aravalli hills. Here he was met by a holy man who told him he was to shift his capital and rebuild on the banks of Lake Pichola as here it would never be conquered. Udaipur was founded and eventually in 1615 AD a peace treaty was negotiated and Udaipur remained the capital of Mewar thereafter and was never conquered.

The City Palace and museums which overlook Lake Pichola are a must visit here. A marvel of marble and granite the City Palace is the largest palace in Rajasthan. The exquisite workmanship and architecture with balconies and towers make it a unique building. It is hard to imagine that the building has been added to and was once made up of eleven separate palaces. From the terrace there are views of Lake Pichola and the city. The Sun Balcony, the Mor Chowk courtyard known for its beautiful peacock mosaics, the shrine of Dhuni Mata and the Museum of Rana Pratap are the highlights in this complex.

A boat trip on Lake Picola is a wonderful way to experience Udaipur and see the Lake Palace that is stranded like a boat in the middle of the Lake. The boat rides depart from a jetty to the south of the City Palace Complex.

 

Another lake palace is located on an island to the south and it is called Jag Mandir. The main building here is the Gol Mahal and it houses a small exhibition about the islands’ history. Apparently when Shah Jahan was young he stayed on the island. The palace with its intricate stone inlay work and domed roof is thought to have given him the inspiration to build the Taj Mahal.

 

To the north of the city palace the Jagdish Temple built in 1652 is dedicated to Lord Jagannath. This is a place where worship occurs and a way of life can be observed. In the sanctuary the black stone image of Jagganath is worshipped with flower offerings.

 

Sahellion-ki-Bari was a summer retreat for the royal ladies. Today the gardens here is a peaceful place to visit and relax. The attractive formal walled garden and tiered fountain with its surrounding elephant statues can’t fail to impress.

 

The original settlement of Udaipur grew around the city palace on the eastern shore of Lake Pichola. The old city here is made up of tightly winding streets perfect for walking.

To the north there is another major lake called Fateh Sagar The drive along the road by Fateh Sagar Lake is very scenic and eventually it arrives at Shilgram village. This is an attraction for those interested in rural arts and crafts. Shilgram village promotes traditional architecture, music and crafts of tribal people in Western India.

 

 Another famous attraction is the Monsoon palace on a hill to the west of the city. It is worth making the visit to the top if only for wonderful city view. The location for the palace was thought to be the perfect place to build a nine storey observatory to allow the royal family to see the monsoon clouds as they gathered over the countryside below. However this project never eventuated due to the untimely death of the Maharana Sajjan Singh. Unfortunately the Palace too was soon abandoned because it was impossible to pump water up to it. The palaces, landscape and lakes of Udaipur ensure that it deserves its title as the most romantic city in Rajasthan.

Jodhpur is located at the edge of the Marwar desert region in a desert triangle that includes Bikaner and Jaisalmer. The Rathores who were the original royalty in the Marwar region kept shifting their capital. Rao Jodha who claimed to be a decendant of Rama founded Jodhpur in 1459 AD by building the gigantic Mehrangarh Fort on a hilltop. Jodhpur has grown beyond its original Fort boundaries.The houses in Jodhpur are painted a blue indigo and therefore the city is known as the blue city.The blue paint is believed to make houses cooler and it also thought to keep the insects away.

 

Today Jodhpur is still dominated by Mehrangarh, the enormous fort that sits high on a rocky ridge. The old city just below the fort is mostly painted blue and surrounded by a 10km long wall. The streets here are winding, with shops that sell anything and everything.The medieval bazaars are located west of the clock tower and are certainly a shopper’s delight.

 

The fort is one of the great attractions here and the museum is well laid out with good descriptions in English. Beautiful displays of clothing worn by royalty, displays of elephant carriages through the ages, an impressive armory, marwar paintings, and royal rocking cradles all show the type of life style enjoyed by the royal family. It displays the passage of time and the wealth of the royals as they adapted to innovations. One luxurious 20th Century cradle on show is automated and runs on electricity and it allowed royal infants to be rocked to sleep in a labour-saving manner!

 

Jaswant Thawa  is a white marble memorial built for Maharaja Jaswant Singh II and it is located close to the Fort. It is a peaceful spot to visit and this royal cenotaph also provides a good place to view the fort and take photographs. Located on a hill top,The Umaid Gardens, containing the Sadar Government Museum and  The Umaid Bhawan Palace are also definitely worth a visit.

 

The arid area to the south of Jodhpur is home to Bishnoi Villages. The best way to explore this area is by an organized “Village Safari” with a guide.It is possible to visit different villages and observe the local way of life.What sets the Bishnoi people apart is their religious philosophy and culture. The Bishnois are very aware, and take care, of their natural environment. They are followers of Jambeshwar, a 15th Century holy man whose principles were largely concerned with protecting the environment. The villages showcase their traditional food, pottery and weaving. Black bucks can be seen freely roaming around the villages quite tame and relaxed. Bishnois are strictly vegetarian and no hunting for animals takes place in their territory

Bikaner was founded by Roa Bika 1488AD and he was the son of the founder of Jodhpur Roa Jodha. He chose a spot in the barren wilderness and transformed it into an impressive city. Later in 1880AD Maharaja Ganga Singh dug the Gang canal thus ensuring water for the surrounding landscape. In the past Bikaner flourished because of its location on the caravan trade route.

Today Bikaner is a vibrant desert town that has a population of half a million people (small by India's standards). The star attractions are the Junagarh Fort, and the old city. Close to the Old fort is the old walled city with its medieval maze of narrow streets. Junagarh fort is protected by a large sandstone wall and a moat. Being in such an isolated location in the Thar Desert meant that the Fort was never conquered. For this reason Junagarh is well preserved and within its walls there are beautifully decorated palaces, temples and pavilions.  

 

 An excellent bazaar is located near Kote Gate and here it is possible to find local handicrafts such as rugs and carpets, products made from camel hide and miniatures in Bikaneri style. Local snacks and sweets are also for sale here.Located nearby are Ramparia and Kothari Havelis which are ornate buildings constructed in the 17th and 18th centuries by Bikaner’s wealthy merchants.

 

Bikaner is famous for its Camels and located near Bikaner is the Government National Research Centre specializing in camel research. The Government camel breeding farm can be found 9km southeast of Bikaner. It was set up in 1975 and breeds nearly half of the camels in India. It is best to visit here in the late afternoon when the camels return from their grazing.  

 

Many people travel to Bikaner to visit the famous Karni Mata Temple at Deshnoke where rats are worshipped.The Karni Mata Temple is located 30 km south of Bikaner at Deshnoke but is generally visited while people stay in Bikaner. It was constructed by Maharaja Ganga Singh in the early 1900s as a tribute to the rat goddess, Karni Mata.The temple is home to 20,000 rats. Karni Mata, was a mystic matriarch from the 14th century, and thought to be an incarnation of Durga, the goddess of power and victory. When the child of one of her clansmen died she attempted to bring it back to life. However Yama, the god of death told her the child had already been reincarnated. Karni Mata bargained with Yama to make a promise that all the people from her tribe would be reborn as rats until they could be born back into the clan. In Hinduism, this cycle of transmigration is known as samsara and this is why Karni Mata's rats are treated like royalty. Devotees coming to the temple make offerings to them generally in form of milk, grains, and sweets.

Jaisalmer originated as a remote outpost in the desert and was founded in the 12th Century. Being located  on a busy caravan trade route to Afganisthan and central Asia allowed early rulers to grow rich. The Jaisalmer Maharajas were of the Bhatti Rajput clan and they were continually warring with the Rajpur states of Jodhpur, Bikaner and the Muslim Sultans of Delhi. By the 16th Century Jaisalmer had become a peaceful town of wealthy traders. Historically caravans may have been attacked by early inhabitants in this region for the treasures of gems, silk, and opium but eventually mostly peaceful overland trade meant the city grew rich. In 1570 the ruler of Jaisalmer cemented an alliance with the Mughal Empire by marriage of his daughter to Akbar’s son. This ensured peace and the city continued to grow rich through trade.

Religion and art flourished under the rulers of Jaisalmer. The rulers were Hindus but tolerated Jainism as the Jain bankers were allowed to live within city walls to organize the wealth that was created through trade.Today beautiful Jain temples still exist within city walls and the Jain and Hindu temples coexist within the fort. Two of the Jain Temples are open between 7am to 12noon and the other 5 are only open between 11am and noon, The temples are connected by small corridors and stairways. The marble shrines, walls, pillars and ceilings are beautifully carved and the craftsmanship is truly impressive. It is possible to walk through the forts’ small narrow streets as vehicles are only allowed as far as the main courtyard. Gopa Chowk located at the entrance of the fort is the main market-place and here the caravans used to halt.

 

This century the rise of shipping trade and the port in Mumbai has seen the city decline in importance. Due to Independence and Partision the enforced border with Pakistan in effect closed the trade route. However its strategic location so near the border has boosted the Jaisalmer economy with the construction of a military base, as did the Indira Gandhi canal which brings water to this desert area.

Jaisalmer is the only fort in Rajasthan that is still populated and its golden sandstone walls rising out of the desert are like stepping back in time. Within the fort a maze of narrow streets complete the feeling that you are in a place that time has forgotten.

 

Outside the fort walls the Jaisalmer Havelis built in the late 19th and 20th centuries are noteworthy because of their architecture. They were built by wealthy traders who displayed their wealth by craftsmanship and stunning decorations on the exterior of their homes. Some of these havelis are in excellent condition and allow you inside. Some will charge a small admittance fee.

 

No visit to Jaisalmer is complete without a visit to Gadisagar Lake and Telia Gate. Telia was the name of a courtesan at the court and she built the gate with her own money. The gift was frowned on when it became apparent that Telia was responsible for the construction of the gate,The court wanted the gate demolished. Telia refused to be beaten and took some advice. By dedicating her gate to Brahma, and by building a small temple on top of the gate she was able to preserve her creation from destruction. At Gadisagar Lake you will be encouraged to feed the catfish that survive in the muddy waters.

 

The Sam sand dunes are a popular excursion from Jaisalmer being located just 42 km away along a sealed road, The road is maintained by the Indian Army. Visiting here is a true desert experience and is best done at sunrise or sunset. Camel rides are available to take you to the sand dunes.

Bharatpur is located 181 km to the east of Jaipur and it is most famous for being one of the world's most important bird sanctuaries. 

 

It was founded by Maharaja Suraj Mal in 1733.Bharatpur was once an impregnable, well-fortified city, and the capital of a kingdom ruled by Jat maharajas. The trio of Bharatpur, Deeg and Dholpur has played an important part in the Jat history of Rajasthan. The city and the fort of Bharatpur have been believed to be founded by Lord Aditya a Consul in the early 17th century, the majesty established a state in the Mewat region south of Delhi, with its capital at Deeg. Leaders like Gokula, Raja Ram, Churaman and Badan Singh brought the Jats together and moulded them into a force to be reckoned with Bharatpur and its Keoladeo Ghana National Park was developed by the the rulers of Bharatpur by diverting water in the mid 18th Century to create a private duck resort. British Viceroys and other royal guests were entertained here with organised hunting parties.

 

Today the park spreads over 29 sq km of wetlands attracting a wide variety of migrant and water birds.There are 375 species of bird belonging to 56 families of Egret,Darter,Comorant, Heron,and stork. Other birds include the Peregrine,Falcon,Steppe Eagle,Garganery,Teal,Snake bird and White Ibis.Theime to visit here is re are a large variety of stork including the Black Necked Stork considered to be the world's largest Stork.

 

Pushkar means Pushpa (flower) and Kar (hand) and legend claims its lakes were created by petals falling from Brahma the creators' hands. It has one of the few temples devoted to Brahma. Life in this peaceful town revolves around its lakeside ghats, temples and bazaars. It is also famous for its 10 day annual cattle fair in October/November. No eggs, meat or alcohol are available or allowed in Pushkar.
 There are more than 500 temples surrounding Lake Pushkar. The temples are beautifully whitewashed and shining in the bright sunlight. They are connected to the lake by 52 Ghats.

 

There is a religious atmosphere about the town and a visit to the Brahma Temple is a must. The main sanctuary houses a four headed image of Brahma. To the side there are smaller shrines that provide views across the desert to the Savitri Temple on the summit of a hill nearby. The Savitri Temple can be visited by climbing the hill and this is certainly a lovely place to visit at sunrise or sunset to enjoy the view. The temple houses an image of Savitri dating back to the 7th Century.

 

 The Gayitri Temple located on a hill to the east of the town is also a good place to be at sunrise.

The background to the location of the temples is as follows. Brahma was meant to marry Savitri the river goddess but her preparations took a long time and she did not arrive at the appropriate time. The marriage ritual needed to happen at a specific astrological designated moment in time. Brahma did not want the time or opportunity to pass by. The only substitute he could find at a moment’s notice was Gayitri a shepherdess. Gayitri was of an untouchable Gujar caste but this was soon remedied by the gods purifying her. Gaya means cow and tri means through and by passing through a cow she was purified. Brahma and Gayatri were married but soon after Savitri arrived dressed and prepared to be married. When she realized what had happened she became very angry and cursed Brahma with the following predictions. From this time onwards he would only be worshipped at Pushkar and anyone of the Gujar caste could only be liberated after death if their ashes were scattered on Pushkar Lake. This belief still practiced today.

 

The Savitri temple was to be located on the highest hill above Pushkar. because here Savitri flew to after cursing Brahma. Gayitri occupies the lower hill on the opposite side of the lake. Savitri would always have the honour of being worshipped first before Gayitri. This is the way the pilgrims still worship in Pushkar to this day.

Ranakpur is a village located between Jodhpur and Udaipur. It is well known for its beautiful marble Jain temple The temple has distinctive domes, turrets and copulas and its location on the slope of a hill is picturesque. Over 1444 marble pillars support the roof of the temple and it is made up of a complicated series of 29 halls. The temple was built in 1439 and is truly a most exquisite and peaceful place to visit.No pillar has been carved the same.

 

It is located in a remote wooded valley which only adds to its beauty. Black- faced monkeys can be seen frolicking about the temple grounds.

 

When visiting the Ranakpur temples shoes, cigarettes and all leather articles must be left at the entrance.Visitors to Ranakpur need to be respectively dressed 

Ranthambore National Park is one of the finest tiger reserves in the country.The  park's abandoned fortress,lakes and healthy tiger population have made it one of the most filmed wildlife reserves in the world. Ranthambore was declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1955 and became part of Project Tiger in 1973.

 

Ranthambore National park is famous for its tigers and it is one of the most accessible places to see these majestic predators in the wild. The park is located 180 km south east of Jaipur.Tigers can be elusive and it is recommended that you stay at least a couple of days to increase your chances of seeing one. A good time to visit is between November and May when the nature of the dry deciduous forests makes sightings more common. The Park which covers an area of nearly 400 sq. km is set between the Aravali and Vindhya ranges. Its deciduous forests were once a part of the magnificent jungles of Central India.

 

The sharp ridges,deep bouldered-filled gorges,lakes and jungles that make up the park are the habitat of a wide variety of other wild life. Carnivores such as the panther, jackal and hyena, numerous species of deer,sloth bear and a great variety of migratory birds. Reptiles such as the monitor and Marsh crocodile also make their home here.

 

The park is closed during the monsoon season July,August and September.

Rohet is the fortified desert home of the descendants of the 16th century Rathore of the Champawat clan. Rohet was gifted to Thakur Dalpat Singh I in 1622 A.D. by the Maharaja Of Jodhpur, as a mark of appreciation for his bravery in battle. It has been home to generations of family that have continued to develop the property.

Today the heritage home has been transformed to a hotel and provides a visitor with a unique experience of warm courteous Rajput hospitality. Brilliantly plumed peacocks strut about, perching themselves under finely carved stone archways and the landscaped gardens are carefully maintained with neem tree groves and bougainvilleas. It is like an oasis in the arid land of Marwar.

 

At Rohet all the festivals are celebrated with great splendour. Special among these is the Festival of Gangaur. The celestial marriage of Shiva and Parvati.Twenty days after the festival of Holi.for 5 nights, village folk come from afar, to gather for Darshan, and participate in Ghoomar, a traditional form of dance. The festival concludes with the Gangaur Mela where the two deities are taken out in ceremonial procession, and the divine marriage ceremony is performed.  

 

Today Rohet is particulary proud of its prize winning Marwari horses with their glossy coats and pointy ears. The horses are bred at Rohet and carefully looked after and nurtured.Visiting the stables here would be of interest to any horse enthusiast.Rohet is also a place for excellent jeep safaris to the local Bishnoi villages.Horse safaris can also be organised here by arrangement.

The walled town of Bundi is located roughly midway between Jaipur and Udaipur and it is therefore a good place to stop for some interesting sightseeing. Bundi is surrounded on three sides by rugged hills on the edge of the Aravalli ranges and it is a small enough city that much can be explored on foot.

 

Highlights include the Garh Palace and Taragarh Fort which overlooks the town. Bundi has over 50 step wells, the deepest of which, the Raniji-ki-Baori, is 46 meters (151 feet) deep.

 

Bundi has a colourful history dating from the 13th Century, and much of this history is evident in its architecture.The palace houses a superb collection of murals. Visit the Chhatra Mahal courtyard and the antechamber that houses finely detailed murals from the 1780’s that are embellished with gold and silver leaf. The Phool Mahal has murals that date back to the 1860’and these feature regiments of soldiers in European dress and a complete camel corps. The Badal Mahal or “Cloud Palace” is where some of the finest paintings in Southern Rajasthan are to be found. The murals here are vivid in colour and feature scenes about Krishna being driven to his wedding by Ganesh and also Rama returning from Sri Lanka to Ayodhya. There are further murals to be found in the Chittra Sala and from here a steep 20 minute climb will take you to the The Taragarh fort. The view from the top of the Fort is well worth the climb.

 

The Raniji-ki-Baori a step well on the south side of town was built in 1699 and is where locals would have kept cool on a hot day. Descend the flights of steps allowing you to stand on platforms surrounded by pillars that are carved and decorated. Here decorating the side walls are carved panels that show the ten avatars of Lord Vishnu.

 

 Nawal Sagar is a large artificial lake containing many small islets. Here a temple dedicated to Varura the god of water stands partially submerged in the middle of the lake. This is the lake that feeds the many step wells around the town.

Kumbalgarh is located in the wilderness 84km north of Udaipur. It is the second longest fortifying wall in the world after the Great Wall of China. It was built in the 15th Century by Rana Khumba who strategically built here because of the inaccessible location inside the Aravalli range of hills.

 

The Fort was difficult to conquer and the rulers of Mewar always sought sanctuary here in times of trouble. The thick fortification wall is 36km long and took a period of 14 years to complete. The wall was wide enough to allow 8 horses abreast to patrol the top of it. Kumbhalgarh is the  place where prince Udai was smuggled to in 1535. This happened when Chittaur was under siege. Prince Udai  later became the successor to the throne and founder of the Udaipur City. The renowned Maharana Pratap, who fought against the army led by Akbar in the battle of Haldighati in the year 1576, was also born at Kumbhalgarh.  

Today The fort complex has many interesting ruins and a visit here is most rewarding. It is well worth a hike to the top to see the amazing view. The top of the Palace extends tens of kilometers into the Aravalli Range.It was built during the 15th century, and enlarged through the 1800s. Today it is accessible to the general public as a museum.The fort is spectacularly lit for a few minutes each evening.

Phalodi is located on the old caravan trade route and is a typical small desert town in the heart of the Thar Desert.It is located almost exactly midway between Bikaner and Jaisalmer.Believed to be founded in the 15th century, the lesser known town of Phalodi was originally ruled by Rao Maldev Rathore of Jodhpur. The arid landscape is punctuated with ancient Hindu and Jain temples, red and white sandstone havelis and street bazaars.Today the town is known for its salt industries besides being home to the Rajasthan Canal Project Colony.

Today attractions here include Phalodi Fort and important temples in the area include Jambaji Temple, and  The Temple of Ramdevra.

 

The local bazaars of Phalodi are filled with traditional jootis, bangles, beaded jewellery including Bishnoi-style necklaces. Just 5 km from Phalodi, bird lovers can visit Kheechen, a sanctuary for the migratory Demoiselle Cranes which travel all the way from South Western Europe, Ukraine and Poland.

The village of Khimsar is located midway between Jodhpur and Bikaner.The fort with its battle-scarred walls and turrets are a reminder of ancient history of Khimsar. Khimsar was once a small kingdom. Jodhpur royalty claim it was never independent,but the Thakurs of Khimsar claim that it was a stand-alone kingdom. Their stories tell of a visit by Emperor Aurangzeb to the fort.The initial construction began in 1523 AD.

The descendants of the family moved in during the 18th Century when a new 'Zenana' (Ladies Wing) was constructed. Thakur Onkar Singh, the present occupant of the fort, built a regal wing for himself in 1940s. Today Khimsar Fort is 450 years old and is currently home to the 20th generation of the Khimsar thakurs. 

 

The village of Khimsar is a good starting point when exploring the District of Nagaur. The Historic fort at Nagaur is beautifully decorated and painted. The old city is home to several mosques, one of which was commissioned by Emperor Akbar. The Nagaur cattle fair is a major cultural event of the region and it draws a large number of local people who come to trade.

The Shekhawati region lies north of Jaipur. The region is located along the old caravan trade route. Here Marwari businessmen constructed their mansions or havelis in the 18th and 19th Centuries.They often made  their wealth in the coastal cities such as Mumbai.because during the British period, trade rivalry pushed the Marwari’s to leave and trade in the major ports on the coast.With their new found wealth they built eleborate homes back home in the Shekhawati region to house their families.The “Garden of the Shekha” is made up of towns which are known for their beautiful havelis or mansions. The havelis are renowned for the frescoes that decorate the exterior walls. The landscape here is desert like and therefore the colourful homes do stand out.

 

Mythology and local fauna are the subject of the frescoes that decorate the walls.Some frescoes illustrate the valor of Lord Rama and the miracles of Lord Krishna but with the advent of British rule the subject of the paintings also changed. Some frescoes show chugging trains and men in military uniform.

 

Towns of interest in this region are Mandawa, Dundlod, Nawalgarh, Sikar, Lachmangarh and Fatehpur and the regions country roads connect these towns allowing a visitor to the region to explore at leisure. 

In many of the towns the frescoes have not been maintained and it is now a race against time to restore them before it is too late. Unfortunately it is sometimes hard to determine ownership and permission for restoring the frescoes needs to be obtained first. The successful families that built these homes are now living in other parts of India.

 

In Fatehpur a beautiful haveli was purchased by a French artist Nadine Le Prince in 1999. The haveli had been built in 1802 by a rich family of traders, the Deora, who were  officers at the court of the local Maharaja.Nadine Le Prince has entirely restored this palace and all the frescoes to their original state. She is doing much to preserve and restore the wonderful and unique heritage of havelis in Shekhawati.  

Chittorgarh located a 110km to the north of Udaipur has a long history and it has been fought over since the eighth Century.From the eighth to the 16th Century it was the seat of power of the Mewar Kingdom. The Mewar Kingdom stretched from Gujarat to Ajmer. During these 8 centuries The Fort of Chittor was overrun and sacked three times. Today an immense stretch of walls and ruined palaces still remain as a reminder of the battles won and lost here. 

Perhaps the most romantic story relates to Padmini the famous Queen of Chittor in 1303. When the Sultan of Delhi Allauddin heard of her beauty he decided to wage war with Rana Ratan Singh the King of Chittor. It is thought that the king agreed to a compromise which allowed the Sultan to have a glimpse of Padmini by means of a mirrored reflection. War was not avoided however and the Sultan attacked and Padmini and her entire entourage of women committed jauhar. The men continued to fight to the death.

 

Today the Fort of Chittor still stands on its 180 meter high hill. It is regarded as one of the most outstanding forts in Rajasthan. The fort is approached through seven huge gateways which are guarded by a watch tower and massive iron spiked doors. The remains of the palace are known to have underground cellars where it is believed the women committed Jauhar. Monuments of note here are the victory tower and the Padmini Palace. The Gaumakh reservoir is a deep tank that is filled by a spring situated at the edge of a cliff. The spring is considered to be sacred. There are also temples that may be visited here. The Meera Temple is of particular beauty as this temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu has beautiful idols in its inner sanctum. There is also a small temple nearby that is dedicated to Lord Krishna. The mighty fort of Chittorgarh with its impressive views is definitely a must see.The town known for its massive fort on top of a hill can be singled out for its glorious and fascinating past. The fort has a chequered history, it has witnessed some of the bloodiest battles in history, three great sakas and some of the most heroic deeds of valour, which are still sung by the local musicians.

In the heart of the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan lies the beautiful small town Mandawa, known throughout the state for its forts and havelis. Mandawa is one of the larger towns in the Shekhawati region and it is a good place to be based when exploring this region. Here it is possible to visit local havelis with a guide.

Mandawa Castle is a curious mix of the old and new. Medieval turreted towers and balconies are a feature and a the magnificent view of the whole village can be seen from the rooftop. Religious life and the sounds of worship reverberate in the stillness when sitting on the rooftop of the castle in the evening.

 

This compact and busy little market town of Mandawa was settled and fortified in 18th century by the dominant merchant families of the region. The wealthy businessmen of the village constructed many havelis and baolis with coloured frescoes on the walls. The migration of these merchant families has meant that their homes are now monuments to a bygone age with caretakers holding the fort incase they return.

Family stories tell that in the 1920’s the Rajadhiraj Nahar Singh of Shahpura mortgaged the family’s private property and jewels to bring water to his people. Today there are 3 lakes here called, Nahar Sagar, Umaid Sagar, and Arvardh Sagar, as well as many small lakes to be found in this region. It is a luxurious wetland refuge and a must for any birdlife enthusiast. Shahpura was the summer residence of the rulers of Shahpura. The 30 acre estate was granted to an ancestor of the current owners by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1630 AD for successful military campaigns against the Marathas and Afgans.

 

The family still has the interests of the local people in mind and is well regarded by the people of Shahpura. When visiting Shahpura Bagh you are treated like a family guest and a visit to the estate is most memorable.Many things are grown and lovingly produced on the estate. A trip into Shahpura town reveals the town’s rich multi-cultural vibrancy and its fascinating arts and crafts tradition. Sit with the Joshis and watch a traditional Phad being worked on,this is a painting depicting mythology and history.

Manvar is located between the ancient cities of Jodhpur ( 90 minutes ) Jaisalmer ( two hours ) and Bikaner ( 2 hours and 30 minutes ). Manvar was developed by Moti Singh Rathore a family member of the Thakurs of Shergarh.Shergarh is an area located between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer.Manvar is spread over five acres of land  and  it is located in the the heart of the sand dune region of Rajasthan.Today Manvar nestles close to the ground almost blending with the surrounding landscape - it has not only become a tourist destination but also an economic hub around which a large portion of the neighbouring villages draw their sustenance.

 

Manvar is an ideal base to explore village desert life ,culture, and  wildlife.It offers contrasting desert experiences as the desert resort built in traditional desert village style is like an oasis well watered and green.The tented camp seven kms from the resort in the desert is a rare sanctuary of pristine beauty ,tranquillity and peace. What better way to spend a day on camel back gazing at the shy Indian gazelle as they make way across the silent sands or see a herd of cattle and sheep roaming around in a relaxed manner. Watch the children trotting off to school, while their mothers prepare their afternoon meal on dung-fire in the village.

 

Manvar is an ideal place to enjoy the desert and activities like camel riding, village jeep safaris,bird watching trips and village walks can be arranged here. The tented camp operates from October until mid April and evenings here will include a campfire,music and dancing.