The vast central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh is larger than many countries and would easily occupy a year or more of travel to see every corner. However the state’s most well known centres for visitors are largely located in close proximity to one another in its northern part.
Gwailior is often the first stopping point when entering Madhya Pradesh as it is just a short drive from Agra. The fort here is very impressive and dominates the city from its position high on a ridge. A more attractive place to stay is Orchha, a delightful town set on a promontory in a river and with a large fort and palace complex as its defining feature.
There are not many places in this part of India which afford excellent accommodation, interesting historical sites and a small, walkable village within close distance of one another, but Orchha is one of those towns and a place of real tranquillity.
A little to the east of Orchha is the famous town of Khajuraho, known the world over for the erotic carvings which adorn many of its beautiful temples. It is hard to believe that this entire site was lost to the world for several centuries until it was ‘rediscovered’ in the 1830s. Some 25 temples of different sizes and levels of carving still remain and those in the main (western) group are uniformly spectacular. Ample time should be allowed here as there is enough to keep the visitor occupied for many hours. A nightly sound and light show illuminates the temples and tells the story of their construction in an interesting manner.
Other places of interest in Madhya Pradesh include the state capital, Bhopal, which has a rich and vibrant history reflected in a series of major monuments, mosques and formal gardens. Madhya Pradesh is also famous for its National Parks- 3 of which, Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench, offer probably the best opportunity to see tigers anywhere in India .
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The Lost Temples
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Khajuraho is a village in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, located in Chhatarpur District,620 kilometres southeast of Delhi,The Khajuraho group of monuments has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is considered to be one of the "seven wonders" of India.One of the most popular tourist destinations in India, Khajuraho has the largest group of medieval Hindu and Jain temples, famous for their erotic sculpture. The name Khajuraho, ancient "Kharjuravahaka", is derived from the Sanskrit word kharjur meaning date palm. The temples were built between the 10th and 12th Centuries as the greatest architectural acievement of the Chandella Dynasty.The temples were abandoned shortly after their completion as the Chandellas fled from Afghan invaders to other areas where they were more secure. The temples fell out of use and were soon forgotton so that by the 16th Century they were swallowed and hidden by the surrounding jungle. It wasn't until 1838 that they were rediscovered by the British. Today the Temples remain a remote destination due to limited daily train access to this site.To avoid a long car journey the easiest way to incorporate it into an itinerary is by taking a flight from Varanasi. The western group of temples are amongst the most spectacular and include the Kandariya,Mahadeva,Vishvanatha and Lakshmana Temples. The incredible skill of the craftsmen is evident when looking at the sculptures and their fine details of jewelery, hairstyles,and even manicured nails.In the evening floodlights highlight the sculptures and their details and they glow white in the moonlight. The southern group of temples were built in the late Chandellan period show a decline in temple architecture eventhough it still has some exquisite carvings.Here there are 3 Temples and some do have some unique features. The main temple has an exterior that is angular and rippled and it is unique to the area of Khajuraho.
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Fort Complex
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Orchha's grandeur has been captured in stone, frozen in time; a rich legacy to the ages. In this medieval city, the hand of time has rested lightly and the palaces and temples built by it's Bundela rulers in the 16th and 17th centuries retain much of their pristine perfection. Orchha was founded in 16th century by the Bundela Rajput chieftain Rudra Pratap who chose this stretch of land along Betwa river as an ideal site for his capital. Of the succeeding rulers, the most notable was Raja Bir Singh who built the exquisite Jehangir Mahal, a tiered palace crowned with graceful Chhatries. From here there is a spectacular view of the soaring temple spires and cenotaphs. Complementing the beautiful proportions of the exterior are interiors which represent the finest flowering of the Bundela school of painting. In the Laxminarayan Temple, vibrant murals encompassing a variety of religious and secular themes, bring the walls and ceilings to life. Strewn around the area are little shrines and memorials, each with its own history which contributes to the nostalgic beauty of Orchha. The fort in Orchha houses three beautiful palaces set in an open quadrangle. These are Jehangir Mahal built by Raja Bir Singh in 17th century to commemorate the visit of Emperor Jehangir. It's strong lines are counterbalanced by delicate Chhatries and trellis work, conveying an effect of extraordinary richness. Raj Mahal - situated to the right of the quadrangle, is a palace built by Madhukar Shah, the deeply religious predecessor of Raja Bir Singh Ju Deo. The plain exteriors crowned by chhatries, that give way to interiors with exquisite murals, boldly colourful, on a variety of religious themes. Rai Praveen Mahal - Poetess and musician, Rai Praveen was the beautiful paramour of Raja Indramani (1672-76), and was sent to Delhi on the orders of Emperor Akbar, who was captivated by her. She so impressed the Emperor with her love for Indramani that he sent her back to Orchha. The palace built for her is a low two-storied brick structure, designed to match the height of the trees in the surroundings. Anand Mahal has beautifully landscaped gardens with octagonal flower beds and an elaborate water supply system. Skilfully carved niches allow light into the Mahal which has a main hall and smaller chambers.
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Gwalior Fort one of the Finest Examples Of Rajput Architecture
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Gwallior Fort is most impressive as it sits on top of a sheer-sided hill stretching out for at least 3km.The entire complex is surrounded by large bastioned walls at least 10m high. Inside the complex are some of the most exquisite temples and palaces in all of India. The most spectacular Palace in the complex is Man Mandir and was built between 1486 and 1516 by Raja Man Singh. This palace is widely regarded as being one of the finest examples of Rajput architecture. Its stone carving and latticework are sure to impress as are the vividly coloured decorative tiles that enhance the exterior.
Another important attraction outside of the fort to the south is the opulent Jai Vilas Palace built in the late 19th Century in an Italianate style. The reception hall is home to two of the world’s largest chandeliers that weigh 3 tonnes each. Today this palace has been turned into a museum and it has some interesting exhibits. Do not miss seeing the mechanical silver toy train that was used by the Maharaja to carry the liqueurs around the dining table.
North of the fort is the location of two Muslim monument s dating back to the 16th Century. One is the tomb of Mohammed Ghaus with its outstanding stone lattice work screens and the other is the Tomb of Tansen. Interestingly Tansen was a well regarded singer in the court of Emperor Akbar and his tomb reflects the esteem in which he was held. Akbar named him one of the “nine jewels at the court” and his name continues to be connected to music today. Every year in late November or early December a four day Indian classical music event is held at the Muslim tombs here. If you are visiting at this time it is a worthwhile experience.Gwalior's history is traced back to a legend in 8th century AD when a chieftain known as Suraj Sen or Surya Sen a Kachwaha Rajput was struck by a deadly disease and cured by a hermit-saint Galav. As a gratitude for that incidence, he founded this city by his name.
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