Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India

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The Ancient Golden City
 
Jaisalmer originated as a remote outpost in the desert and was founded in the 12th Century. Being located  on a busy caravan trade route to Afganisthan and central Asia allowed early rulers to grow rich. The Jaisalmer Maharajas were of the Bhatti Rajput clan and they were continually warring with the Rajpur states of Jodhpur, Bikaner and the Muslim Sultans of Delhi. By the 16th Century Jaisalmer had become a peaceful town of wealthy traders. Historically caravans may have been attacked by early inhabitants in this region for the treasures of gems, silk, and opium but eventually mostly peaceful overland trade meant the city grew rich. In 1570 the ruler of Jaisalmer cemented an alliance with the Mughal Empire by marriage of his daughter to Akbar’s son. This ensured peace and the city continued to grow rich through trade.

Religion and art flourished under the rulers of Jaisalmer. The rulers were Hindus but tolerated Jainism as the Jain bankers were allowed to live within city walls to organize the wealth that was created through trade.Today beautiful Jain temples still exist within city walls and the Jain and Hindu temples coexist within the fort. Two of the Jain Temples are open between 7am to 12noon and the other 5 are only open between 11am and noon, The temples are connected by small corridors and stairways. The marble shrines, walls, pillars and ceilings are beautifully carved and the craftsmanship is truly impressive. It is possible to walk through the forts’ small narrow streets as vehicles are only allowed as far as the main courtyard. Gopa Chowk located at the entrance of the fort is the main market-place and here the caravans used to halt.
 
This century the rise of shipping trade and the port in Mumbai has seen the city decline in importance. Due to Independence and Partision the enforced border with Pakistan in effect closed the trade route. However its strategic location so near the border has boosted the Jaisalmer economy with the construction of a military base, as did the Indira Gandhi canal which brings water to this desert area.
Jaisalmer is the only fort in Rajasthan that is still populated and its golden sandstone walls rising out of the desert are like stepping back in time. Within the fort a maze of narrow streets complete the feeling that you are in a place that time has forgotten.
 
Outside the fort walls the Jaisalmer Havelis built in the late 19th and 20th centuries are noteworthy because of their architecture. They were built by wealthy traders who displayed their wealth by craftsmanship and stunning decorations on the exterior of their homes. Some of these havelis are in excellent condition and allow you inside. Some will charge a small admittance fee.
 
No visit to Jaisalmer is complete without a visit to Gadisagar Lake and Telia Gate. Telia was the name of a courtesan at the court and she built the gate with her own money. The gift was frowned on when it became apparent that Telia was responsible for the construction of the gate,The court wanted the gate demolished. Telia refused to be beaten and took some advice. By dedicating her gate to Brahma, and by building a small temple on top of the gate she was able to preserve her creation from destruction. At Gadisagar Lake you will be encouraged to feed the catfish that survive in the muddy waters.
 
The Sam sand dunes are a popular excursion from Jaisalmer being located just 42 km away along a sealed road, The road is maintained by the Indian Army. Visiting here is a true desert experience and is best done at sunrise or sunset. Camel rides are available to take you to the sand dunes.
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